Please don’t tell us that the biggest dream of a surfer is to get perfect tubular waves with warm water in some paradisiacal spot.Don’t tell us either the bullshit of a surfer’s main goal, about conquering the freedom of spirit, the integration with nature and all those poetic sentences.
Excluding the girls (hetero), we can state that a surfer's nirvana occurs when some vision close to this picture happens.
This is the situation, when you stop to think and you wish the moment will extend eternally.
The guy who invented “Carpe Diem” was surely thinking in something like this
One thing is true, surfers that already were blessed with this kind of gift, they won’t be easily surprised (positive) for the rest of their lives.
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